Last Japan story, I promise.

We were blessed with another experience that was made possible only with resident hosts -- the opportunity to visit a sumo training session. This experience was one of the most interesting things we did in Japan. Greg and I were equally as impressed as Christopher, and I think even Yuji's sisters enjoyed it.

The sumo train together in houses -- eating, living, training together. It's almost like a commune. Younger sumo help with more of the chores for the more experienced, high ranking sumo in the house. They do a lot of the cooking and cleaning and have to wait to take baths, etc. until the higher ranking sumo are done. Clearly, a good deal of ritual and regimentation.

A sumo house was located several blocks away from Yuji's parents home, but nobody in the Hirano family had ever been there (or had ever been to see any live sumo before). Knowing Christopher's interest in it, they called the house and were granted permission to come and watch a training session as long as we were quiet and respectful. What an experience! I can tell you that Americans sometimes have trouble understanding Sumo. Watching large, half naked men holding each other close in a ring just brings up all kinds of strange images for most Americans. Without any background or experience with the sport, we tend to dismiss it.

I think our entire family had a new found respect for the sport after watching a training session, however. They trained in near silence which gave it a very regal, serious feeling. The ancient, ritualistic aspects of the training were apparent and it was hard not to appreciate the dedication and skill. We watched as various members of the house matched up for bouts, with the winner staying in the rink until he was defeated by another member. We could see the sweat falling off of them, the vigorousness of their defense, the strength and agility with which they moved. We could hear the panting and catching of their breath after a difficult bout, and then the look of agony when somebody was defeated. We were very impressed with several of the wrestlers, including the two top wrestlers (identified by wearing a white colored belt rather than a black one, which is their only clothing during the match), as well as a junior sumo who was smaller than some of the others, but leapt like a panther with tremendous strength and agility.